FCI Dog breeds

Here are the dog breeds as recognized by the FCI (Federation Cynologique Internationale). The FCI regulates all the breeds standards, issues exhibitions regulations, keeps records of dogs and much more. You can visit the official website here:
http://www.fci.be/

Apart FCI there are other kennel clubs in the world like the American kennel club ( www.akc.org ) or the Kennel club UK (www.the-kennel-club.org.uk/ ), but the FCI is widely accepted as being the most important of them all.

This being said, lets get to the point.
The FCI has organized all breeds of dogs in 10 major groups:

Group 1: Sheepdogs and Cattle Dogs (except Swiss Cattle Dogs)
Group 2: Pinscher and Schanuzer - Molossoid Breeds - Swiss Mountain and Cattle Dogs and Other Breeds
Group 3: Terriers
Group 4: Dachshunds
Group 5: Spitz and Primitive types
Group 6: Scenthounds and Related Breeds
Group 7: Pointing Dogs
Group 8: Retrievers - Flushing Dogs - Water Dogs
Group 9: Companion and Toy Dogs
Group 10: Sighthounds

There are also some other breeds that ore currently temporarily recognized by the FCI, until full acceptance.

Group 1:
1. Australian Kelpie
2. Belgian Shepherd – this breed actually has more varieties but these are treated almost as different breeds. The varieties are: Groenendael, Laekenois, Malinois, Tervueren.
3. Czeslovakian Wolfdog
4. Croatian Sheepdog
5. German Shepherd Dog
6. Majorca Shepherd Dog
7. Catalan Sheepdog
8. Beauceron
9. Briard
10. Berger Picard
11. Long-haired Pyrenean Sheepdog
12. Pyrenean Sheepdog - smooth faced
13. Bearded Collie
14. Border Collie
15. Collie Rough
16. Collie Smooth
17. Old English Sheepdog (Bobtail)
18. Shetland Sheepdog
19. Welsh Corgi Cardigan
20. Welsh Corgi Pembroke
21. Bergamasco Shepherd Dog
22. Maremma and Abruzzes Sheepdog
23. Komondor
24. Kuvasz
25. Mudi
26. Puli
27. Pumi
28. Dutch Shepherd Dog
29. Saarloos Wolfdog
30. Dutch Schapendoes
31. Polish Lowland Sheepdog
32. Tatra Shepherd Dog
33. Portuguese Sheepdog
34. Slovakian Chuvach
35. South Russian Shepherd Dog
36. Australian Shepherd
37. Australian Cattle Dog
38. Ardennes Cattle Dog
39. Flanders Cattle Dog
40. Cão Fila de São Miguel

Group 2:
1. Dobermann
2. German Pinscher
3. Miniature Pinscher
4. Affenpinscher
5. Austrian Pinscher
6. Giant Schnauzer
7. Schnauzer
8. Miniature Schnauzer
9. Dutch Smoushond
10. Tchiorny Terrier (Black Terrier)
11. Dogo Argentino
12. Fila Brasileiro
13. Shar Pei
14. Broholmer
15. German Boxer
16. Great Dane
17. Rottweiler
18. Majorca Mastiff
19. Dogue de Bordeaux
20. Bulldog
21. Bullmastiff
22. Mastiff
23. Mastino Napoletano
24. Cane Corso Italiano
25. Tosa
26. Anatolian Shepherd Dog
27. Newfoundland (Teranova)
28. Hovawart
29. Leonberger
30. Continental-European type
31. Spanish Mastiff
32. Pyrenean Mastiff
33. Pyrenean Mountain Dog
34. Yugoslavian Shepherd Dog-Sharplanina
35. Atlas Mountain Dog – Aidi
36. Serra da estrela Mountain Dog
37. Castro Laboreiro Dog
38. Alentejo Mastiff
39. Saint Bernard Dog
40. Karst Shepherd Dog
41. Caucasian Shepherd Dog
42. Central Asia Shepherd Dog
43. Tibetan Mastiff
44. Appenzell Cattle Dog
45. Bernese Mountain Dog
46. Entlebuch Cattle Dog
47. Great Swiss Mountain Dog

Group 3:
1. Brazilian Terrier
2. German Hunting Terrier
3. Airedale Terrier
4. Bedlington Terrier
5. Border Terrier
6. Fox Terrier (Smooth)
7. Fox Terrier (Wire)
8. Lakeland Terrier
9. Manchester Terrier
10. Parson Russell Terrier
11. Welsh Terrier
12. Irish Glen of Imaal Terrier
13. Irish Terrier
14. Kerry Blue Terrier
15. Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier
16. Australian Terrier
17. Jack Russell Terrier
18. Cairn Terrier
19. Dandie Dinmont Terrier
20. Norfolk Terrier
21. Norwich Terrier
22. Scottish Terrier
23. Sealyham Terrier
24. Skye Terrier
25. West Highland White Terrier
26. Japanese Terrier
27. Cesky Terrier
28. Bull Terrier – with 2 varieties, the standard bullterrier and the miniature bullterrier
29. Staffordshire Bull Terrier
30. American Staffordshire Terrier
31. Australian Silky Terrier
32. English Toy Terrier
33. Yorkshire Terrier
I’d like to make one addition. The American Pit Bull Terrier is not recognized as a breed by the FCI due to reasons we all know so well, non the less The American Pit Bull Terrier is indeed a breed by it’s own and specialized breeders have developed a breed standard and they are breeding following very strict rules. The American Pit Bull Terrier is a bull type terrier so if it will ever be recognized by the FCI it will belong in the 3rd group.

Group 4:
1. Teckel – with following varieties: Standards with: Smooth-haired, Long-haired, Wire-haired, Miniature with: Smooth-haired, Long-haired, Wire-haired and Rabbit Dachshund with: Smooth-haired, Long-haired, Wire-haired
These varieties are all judged as different breeds.
Group 5:
1. Greenland Dog
2. Samoyed
3. Alaskan Malamute
4. Siberian Husky
5. Norwegian Elkhound grey
6. Norwegian Elkhound black
7. Norwegian Lundehund
8. Russian-European Laïka
9. East Siberian Laïka
10. West Siberian Laïka
11. Swedish Elkhound
12. Norrbottenspitz
13. Karelian Bear Dog
14. Finnish Spitz
15. Icelandic Sheepdog
16. Norwegian Buhund
17. Swedish Lapphund
18. Swedish Vallhund
19. Finnish Lapphund
20. Finnish Reindeer Herder
21. German Spitz
22. Keeshond
23. Keeshond
24. Giant Spitz
25. Medium size Spitz
26. Miniature Spitz
27. Pomeranian
28. Volpino Italiano
29. Chow Chow
30. Eurasian
31. Korea Jindo Dog
32. Akita
33. American Akita
34. Hokkaïdo
35. Kai
36. Kishu
37. Japanese Spitz
38. Shiba
39. Shikoku
40. Canaan Dog
41. Pharaoh Hound
42. Mexican Hairless Dog (Xoloitzcuintle )
43. Peruvian Hairless Dog
44. Basenji
45. Canarian Warren Hound
46. Cirneco dell'Etna
47. Portuguese Warren Hound - Portuguese Podengo
48. Thai Ridgeback Dog

Group 6:
1. Bloodhound
2. Poitevin
3. Billy
4. French Tricolour Hound
5. French White and Black Hound
6. French White and Orange Hound
7. Great Anglo-French Tricolour Hound
8. Great Anglo-French White and Black Hound
9. Great Anglo-French White and Orange Hound
10. Great Gascony Hound
11. Gascon saintongeois
12. Grand Griffon Vendeen
13. English Foxhound
14. Otterhound
15. American Foxhound
16. Black and Tan Coonhound
17. Bosnian coarse-haired Hound - called Barak
18. Istrian short-haired Hound
19. Istrian coarse-haired Hound
20. Posavaz Hound
21. Spanish Hound
22. Anglo-français de petite vénerie
23. Ariégeois
24. Beagle-Harrier
25. Chien d'Artois
26. Porcelaine
27. Small Blue Gascony Hound
28. Medium Griffon Vendeen
29. Blue Gascony Griffon
30. Fawn Brittany Griffon
31. Griffon nivernais
32. Harrier
33. Hellenic Hound
34. Italian Hound
35. Serbian Tricolour Hound
36. Montenegrin Mountain Hound
37. Serbian Hound
38. Transylvanian Hound
39. Norwegian Hound
40. Halden Hound
41. Hygen Hound
42. Austrian Black and Tan Hound
43. Styrian coarse-haired Hound
44. Tyrolean Hound
45. Polish Hound
46. Swiss Hound
47. Slovakian Hound
48. Finnish Hound
49. Hamilton Hound
50. Schiller Hound
51. Småland Hound
52. German Hound
53. Westphalian Dachsbracke
54. Artesian-Norman Basset
55. Blue Gascony Basset
56. Fawn Brittany Basset
57. Grand Basset Griffon Vendeen
58. Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen
59. Basset Hound
60. Beagle
61. Small Swiss Hound
62. Swedish Dachsbracke
63. Bavarian Mountain Scenthound
64. Hanoverian Scenthound
65. Alpine Dachsbracke
66. Dalmatian
67. Rhodesian Ridgeback

Group 7:
1. Old Danish Pointing Dog
2. German Short-haired Pointing Dog
3. German Wire-haired Pointing Dog
4. Pudelpointer
5. German Rough-haired Pointing Dog
6. Weimaraner
7. Burgos Pointing Dog
8. Ariege Pointing Dog
9. Auvergne Pointing Dog
10. Bourbonnais Pointing Dog
11. French Pointing Dog - Gascogne type
12. French Pointing Dog - Pyrenean type
13. St.Germain Pointing Dog
14. Italian Pointing Dog
15. Hungarian Wire-haired Pointing Dog
16. Portuguese Pointing Dog
17. Small Munsterlander
18. Large Munsterlander
19. German long-haired Pointing Dog
20. Blue Picardy Spaniel
21. Brittany
22. French Spaniel
23. Picardy Spaniel
24. Spaniel de Pont-Audemer
25. Drentse Partridge Dog
26. Frisian Pointing Dog
27. French wire-haired Korthals Pointing Griffon
28. Italian Wire-haired Pointing Dog
29. Bohemian wire-haired Pointing Griffon
30. Slovakian Wire-haired Pointing Dog
31. English Pointer
32. English Setter
33. Gordon Setter
34. Irish Red Setter
35. Irish Red and White Setter

Group 8:
1. Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever
2. Curly Coated Retriever
3. Flat Coated Retriever
4. Labrador Retriever
5. Golden Retriever
6. Chesapeake Bay Retriever
7. German Spaniel
8. Clumber Spaniel
9. English Cocker Spaniel
10. Field Spaniel
11. Sussex Spaniel
12. English Springer Spaniel
13. Welsh Springer Spaniel
14. Small Dutch Waterfowl Dog
15. American Cocker Spaniel
16. Spanish Waterdog
17. French Water Dog
18. Irish Water Spaniel
19. Romagna Water Dog
20. Frisian Water Dog
21. Portuguese Water Dog
22. American Water Spaniel

Group 9:
1. Maltese
2. Havanese
3. Bichon Frise
4. Bolognese
5. Coton de Tuléar
6. Little Lion Dog
7. Poodle
8. Belgian Griffon
9. Brussels Griffon
10. Small Brabant Griffon
11. Chinese Crested Dog
12. Lhasa Apso
13. Shih Tzu
14. Tibetan Spaniel
15. Tibetan Terrier
16. Chihuahua
17. Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
18. King Charles Spaniel
19. Pekingese
20. Japanese Chin
21. Continental Toy Spaniel
22. Kromfohrländer
23. French Bulldog
24. Pug
25. Boston Terrier

Group 10:
1. Afghan Hound
2. Saluki
3. Russian hunting sighthound (Borzoi)
4. Irish Wolfhound
5. Deerhound
6. Spanish Greyhound
7. Greyhound
8. Whippet
9. Italian Greyhound
10. Hungarian Greyhound
11. Azawakh
12. Arabian Greyhound
13. Polish Greyhound

I will add pictures for each breed as my time will allow it.

The desktop cleaner

I got this link from a friend of mine...
http://work.xshaped.com/monitorclean/monitor_cleaner.swf
Enjoy!

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Judging the Bull Terrier by Victoria Corse, Corsaire Bull Terriers

JUDGING THE BULL TERRIER
Victoria Corse, Corsaire Bull Terriers
Originally published in "Just Terriers" Magazine, Fall 2003
revised 11/05

(for full article + explanations and pictures visit corsaire bullterriers)

Raymond Oppenheimer, arguably the most influential Bull Terrier breeder-judge of the Twentieth Century, once wrote,
"Lack of virtue is the greatest fault of all."

Any judge would do well to keep that statement engraved in their brain as they step into the ring to begin sorting through their Bull Terrier classes. The Bull Terrier Club of America encourages judges to reward virtue in their entries, as opposed to "fault judging", or attempting to eliminate an animal because of an easily discernable flaw. To that end, the standard clearly states that, "Any departure from the foregoing points shall be considered a fault, and the seriousness of the fault shall be in proportion to its degree…"

Bull Terrier exhibitors seem to be most incensed by the propensity of the non-breeder judge to eliminate from consideration any animal lacking a perfect scissor bite. The bite is the perfect example of "degree of fault", because the correct egg-shaped Bull Terrier head asks for what should be impossible; that the lower jaw must in some way manage to compensate for the upward arch of the top skull and meet in the required "level or a scissor bite", as opposed to undershot, or narrow, with in-standing canine teeth. The balance between that lovely, type-defining head, and a functional and healthy dentition is an ongoing struggle for breeders and judges alike, and must be carefully weighed in any decision. When I judge a class of Bull Terriers, there is always the breeder's eye lurking in the back of my decisions; the question of whether I feel that the particular Bull Terrier has the type and virtue to contribute to the progress of the breed. Because the head defines our breed most clearly, it is what I focus on first. "Begin at the front, and work your way to the back" is a good way to orient yourself to priorities in this breed

Bull Terriers should be particularly three-dimensional dogs. While a lovely silhouette can make you catch your breath, there must also be width, and a sense of substance and muscle to a Bullie. When you put your hands on a Bull Terrier head, and you MUST put your hands on that head to know what it really is, especially if it is a solid colour, or if white, has dark markings, you should feel your palms "filled completely up giving the impression of fullness with a surface devoid of hollows or indentations, i.e., egg shaped." A dramatically curved profile that has no width and fill, also known as the toucan's beak head, is of no more value than a big, fat head with a concave profile, or an angular head, with eyebrow so defined as to resemble a stop. That Bull Terrier head must say "Bull Terrier" from every view… eggs, after all, don't have angles.
Correct eye and expression are also vital to that correct head; there must be the high, triangular and obliquely set dark eyes that give the characteristic "piercing glint", and triangular ears right on top of the head. A Bull Terrier with rounded and gentle eyes, or ears set low on the sides of the head does not convey, "keen, determined and intelligent expression, full of fire…" but instead reminds one of a cud-chewing cow.

If a dog with a particularly lovely head and expression is hampered by an incorrect bite, the question becomes one of degree; how far a departure from perfection is the bite? The US Standard asks for a "level or scissors" bite. I pause only minimally for a bite that is undershot, but that still has upper incisors in contact with the lower. Often referred to as a "reverse scissor", this configuration causes no discomfort or inconvenience to the dog's health and well being, nor does it offend the eye to any great extent. The further out the lower incisors move from the upper, the more likely that the lower jaw will appear disproportionate, and that the dog's ability to pull apart its food will be affected. Far more serious, to my mind, than a minimal underbite, is the perfect scissor bite that is allowed only by a narrowed bottom jaw. This narrowed jaw sets the lower canine teeth inside the gum line and digs them into the hard palate. While the Bull Terrier standard makes no mention of premolars, or of counting teeth, it is still extremely important that judges look past the incisors and back into the mouth. Both lower canines should be visible from gum to tip, and set outside the upper jaw, and the incisors should be uncrowded and in alignment with the gum line.

Despite the importance of head and expression, a Bull Terrier should still be unmistakably a Bull Terrier, even if its head is hidden from sight. Keeping in mind the three-dimensional importance of the Bull Terrier, a strong, arched neck should meet the body at a shoulder that is broad and flat, covered by smoothly sculpted muscle. The body should be shapely, with a visible definition between ribcage and abdomen, and equally well muscled. The strength of the front end should be carried through the short, gently rounded loin into a powerful rear end with well-developed second thighs. Don't be fooled by extra weight, packed onto a skeleton that lacks the good round bone that can support the bulk. Fat can never substitute for honest substance, made up of hard-earned muscle and solid, round bone.
Like many other breeds, there has also been a move towards mistaking "big boned" with "mammoth". Our standard clearly states "not to the point of coarseness". As you step back from the dog, the overall picture should be of a versatile athlete; one with strength, flexibility, and explosive power. All the components of a good Bull Terrier may be wrapped in a 45 pound, Terrier style package, or in a 75-pound Bull type one. Bigger does not necessarily equal better, and the deciding factor should go beyond personal preference to the overall type, proportion, and balance of the dog in question. Equally, a big dog with correct proportion and balance should not be penalized for its size. There is no mention of height or weight in the Standard for Bull Terriers.

Movement may answer any questions still remaining as to the relative virtues of the dogs in the ring. Bull Terrier movement is not best evaluated at high speeds. The movement should be clean and parallel, but instead of the racing trot of a Working or Sporting breed, each step should exhibit power and agility, with an air of supreme indifference to the forces of gravity. The standard describes ideal movement as both "jaunty" and "smooth". Therefore, there should be no unevenness to the gait, nor should there be any hint of restriction. Both a coarse Bully and an overly refined one will exhibit compromise in their movement; one caused by its ungainly bulk, the other by its lack of power. If a dog is moved out at racing speeds, by all means ask the handler to slow down. Excessive speed can be an attempt to hide deficiencies of power, and attempt to dazzle by side gait when impulsion is lacking.

As for any breed, type and soundness combined will produce the ideal Bull Terrier. Faced by the usual spectrum of sizes and styles, judges must ask themselves which exhibit best combines the presence of virtue and the absence of fault. In what animal lies the unmistakable and unique head quality and presence that "screams" Bull Terrier (Bull Terriers are not subtle dogs) while also demonstrating structural integrity and athletic movement?

As a breeder judge, I am looking for proper expression. To me, a Bull Terrier that lacks a "small, triangular and obliquely placed" eye lacks type, as I know how hard it is to consistently produce that varminty, wicked eye set. That keen expression is a virtue on which I place a high value, just as I prize a correct topline and front. Avoid the commonplace dog, and the animal whose deficiencies of make and shape seem to limit its abilities to function effectively. Reward the Bull Terrier who demonstrates its virtues of type and structure in a package that demands your attention, and whose confident, outgoing demeanor reflects its sound temperament.

Bull Terriers are primarily an owner-handled breed. An additional burden for the judge is the need to see past deficiencies in presentation to the virtue of the dog. It can be exasperating to watch while a neophyte handler fusses with bait, mishandles the lead and generally confuses the situation… and their dog. However, as more and more Bull Terrier breeders encourage their puppy buyers to venture out into the dog show world, it is deeply satisfying to watch a newcomer's eyes light up and their chest swell with pride as they achieve even minor wins in the all-breed ring. It is also gratifying to hear, "The judge was SO patient with me; I was so afraid I wouldn't do my dog justice, but he made me feel like I did just fine!" That's an actual quote, made in reference to someone's first time in the ring, under the Airedale breeder, and all-Terrier judge, Charlie Foley. That "newbie" and their Bull Terrier have finished an owner-handled championship, thanks to the encouragement they received, and their ring skills have improved markedly with experience. A good dog's virtue should be discernable under any circumstances, although complete disregard for ring procedure and protocol shouldn't be rewarded. Look past the loop end of that leash, and focus on what is presented, even if the presentation lacks polish.

One final word… in many breeds colour and markings are a critical component of breed type. In Bull Terriers, there are really only four issues regarding colour. In order of importance, they are:

Number one is a potential disqualification for Coloured Bull Terriers. "Any dog which is predominantly white.", is a mandatory disqualification. There are animals who visibly walk a razor's edge as regards the amount of white coat. However, unless a judge chooses to actually disqualify the dog for too much white, the amount and placement of white markings are irrelevant to its quality and should be disregarded.
You be the judge... "predominantly white" or predominantly black-brindle?

Number two is a serious fault in the White Variety. Our standard reads, "The COLOR is white though markings on the dog's head are permissible. Any markings elsewhere are to be severely faulted." A White Bull Terrier who has a coloured marking from about the 3rd cervical vertebrae or lower, down the neck and onto the body, should be penalized for that colour. However, a Bull Terrier of obvious virtue with a body patch of colour should not be ignored in favor of a snow-white nonentity.
Tail-base mismarks are the most common placement, although they may appear anywhere.

Number three is the notorious "brown" issue. There is no mention of the liver pigmented Bull Terrier in the standard for the breed. However, it is important to note that the standard for both Varieties requires a BLACK nose and an eye "as dark as possible". A liver pigmented Bull Terrier, whether white or coloured, will have a light brown or gold eye, and nose pigment is invariably brown. Therefore, that dog should be penalized for its departure from the standard for the nose and eyes, although again, colour should not eliminate from consideration an otherwise virtuous Bull Terrier. Please remember that BLUE eyes are a disqualification in both Varieties.
Red-liver brindled dog, with incomplete brown nose pigment & light eyes.
The fourth mention of colour rarely comes into play, as it contains the defining phrase, "All other things being equal…", a situation so rare as to be practically unheard of. In that case, should it ever be a consideration, the standard specifies that "brindle is the preferred colour". The brindle factor is dominant in Bull Terriers, and to produce brindle puppies one parent must be a brindle. Without a conscious effort to maintain the presence of the brindle factor, the breed runs the risk of losing it altogether. I would personally be delighted to have a class of Coloured Bull Terriers in which the depth of quality was so uniform that I would need to resort to placing a brindle first.

The Bull Terrier Club of America offers extensive materials, including a brilliant Illustrated Standard for the interested judge. The Illustrated Standard, drawings by Cynthia Lord Ruddy, is also available online at http://www.btca.com, the official website of the Bull Terrier Club of America. The BTCA National Specialty Show in 2006 will be held during the week of October 11-16 at the Ferncroft Resort in Danvers, Massachusetts, 20 miles north of Boston. For details, visit Silverwood 2006.

Also on the weekend is the annual showcase for North American Bred Bull Terriers, the Silverwood Trophy Competition. Silverwood is patterned after the Bull Terrier Club Trophy Shows in England and is judged by a total of three judges, who work through their morning rounds in pairs but without consultation, then as a team on the final placements in the afternoon. Only dogs owned by BTCA members are eligible, and they must be qualified through wins at Specialty and supported entries, or by virtue of a Championship title in the US, Canada and Mexico. A win at Silverwood is prized more highly by the die-hard Bull Terrier breeder than any other possible win, and the Trophy itself, donated by Raymond Oppenheimer for the inaugural 1970 competition, is the apex of a breeder's career.
Judges interested in attending the BTCA National Specialty are always welcomed to attend and breeder-judges are happy to volunteer to sit with attendees and discuss the proceedings. Please contact the BTCA Judges Education Committee for informational packages and news of upcoming seminars, also through the website, or call the Judge's Education Chair, Carl Pew, DVM, at 801-942-1719.
2003 Futurity, Silverwood and BTCA Specialty photos by Louis Ruediger, Pittsburgh, PA 10/2003

20 Basic Breeding Principles

Raymond Oppenheimer was one of the most influential persons in the development of the Bull Terrier. He has set new standards, and he has published numerous articles about all the issues concerning the Bull Terrier. Among these, his well known "20 breeding principles" are the most known being used as guidelines not only for breeding Bull Terriers but also to many other breeds.

Here comes in his own words, the 20 basic breeding principles.

1. Don't make use of indiscriminate outcrosses. A judicious outcross can be of great value; an injudicious one can produce an aggregation of every imaginable fault of the breed.

2. Don't line breed just for the sake of line breeding. Line breeding with complimentary types can bring great rewards; with unsuitable one, it will lead to immediate disaster.

3. Don't take advice from people who have always been unsuccessful breeders. If their opinions were worth having, they would have proved it by their successes.

4. Don't believe the popular cliche about the brother or sister of the great champion being just as good to breed from. For every one that is, hundreds are not. It all depends on the animal concerned.

5. Don't credit your dogs with virtues they don't possess. Self-deceit is a stepping stone to failure.

6. Don't breed from mediocrities. The absence of a fault does not in any way signify the presence of its corresponding virtue.

7. Don't try to line bred to two dogs at the same time; you will end by line breeding to neither.

8. Don't assess the worth of a stud dog by his inferior progeny. All stud dogs sire rubbish at times. What matters is how good their best efforts are.

9. Don't allow personal feelings to influence your choice of a stud dog. The right dog for your bitch is the right dog, whoever owns it.

10. Don't allow admiration of a stud dog to blind you to his faults. If you do, you will soon be the victim of auto intoxication.

11. Don't mate together animals which share the same fault. You are asking for trouble if you do.

12, Don't forget that it is the whole dog that counts. If you forget one virtue while searching for another, you will pay for it.

13. Don't search for the perfect do as a mate for your bitch. The perfect dog for every bitch does not exist -- never has, never will.

14. Don't be frightened of breeding from animals that have obvious faults, so long as they have compensating virtues. A lack of virtues bis by far the greatest fault of all.

15. Don't mate together non-complementary types. An ability to recognize type at a glance is a breeder's greatest gift. Ask the successful breeders to explain this subject --- there's no other way of learning. (I'd define non-complimentary types as ones which have the same faults and lack the same virtues).

16. Don't forget the necessity to preserve head quality. It will vanish like a dream if you do.

17. Don't forget that substance plus quality should be one of your aims. A fool can breed one without the other.

18. Don't forget that a great head plus soundness should be one of your aims. Some people can never breed either.

19. Don't ever try to decry a great terrier. A thing of beauty is not only a joy forever, but a great terrier should be a source of aesthetic pride and pleasure to all true lovers of the breed.

20. Don't be satisfied with anything but the best. The second best is never good enough